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Congratulations and Welcome!
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Guy
Shepherd
(Madagascar Director)
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Welcome to one of the most exotic and exciting
countries in the world. Madagascar is not Africa
but unique in it's own right Never boring, Madagascar
can delight the curious whilst frequently testing
the patience of those seeking "normality".
The profound veneration of the Malagasy for their
ancestors, the closeness of the former to the
latter, are an extraordinary trait. This attachment
to the ancestors coupled with a deep love and
respect for their children, this orientation toward
both the past and the future, seems to give the
Malagasy a serene tranquility and sense of continuity
in life. Armed with patience, a little humour
and a few words of Malagasy you will find the
people invariably courteous and hospitable. You
should certainly remember this in your dealings
with the local bureaucracy!
Hilary's Bradt' s Guide to Madagascar is essential
reading for those interested in knowing more about
this fascinating country.The aim of this information
is to make those moving to Madagascar more aware
of typical problems that can be encountered and
overcome in day to day life and is perhaps more
useful to those who will be residing in Antananarivo
(normally referred to as "Tana").
Tonga
soa ... Welcome!! So you're moving to Madagascar...
Madagasikara!
Soava dia! Have a good journey !!
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Geography
Two and a half times the size of Great Britain and
a little smaller than Texas, Madagascar is the world's
fourth largest island, after Greenland, New Guinea and
Borneo. Located 250 miles off the south-east coast of
Africa, the island extends 1,000 miles in length and
360 miles at its largest width.
The island can be divided into three main parts: the
East Coast, a narrow coastal strip abutting the steep
slopes of the North-South mountain range, home of the
rain forest; the Central Highlands, averaging 2500 to
4500 feet in altitude and culminating at 9430 feet,
decorated with immense rice fields; and the West Coast,
home of the baobabs and thorny forest.
History
Madagascar was first sighted but the Europeans (the
Portuguese) in 1500, but there were Arab settlements
from about the 9th century. It was united under one
monarch from the early 19th century, a time of European
missionary influence. It became a French colony in 1896
and regained independence in 1960.
Language
Sixteen million Malagasy inhabit Madagascar. Exactly
how and when the early Malagasy discovered and settled
the island is not known. They have a dual Indonesian
and African origin, attested by their physical features,
language, agricultural practices, and customs. In spite
of their diversity, they are united by a common language
called Malagasy, rooted in ancient Malayo-Polynesian,
ancestor of the tongues spoken in the vast area bounded
by Hawaii, the Tuamotu and Madagascar. The modern language
has been enriched by words imported from Bantu tongues,
Swahili, Arabic, English and French. French is the language
of commerce and business today although English is increasingly
understood and spoken in the cities and tourist areas.
Safety
Madagascar is generally a safe country and certainly
safer than almost any other African country. In fact
it is one of the few developing countries that has not
suffered tribal unrest. In Tana more vigilance is required.
Rural to urban population drift has created a large
underclass and contrasts in wealth can be striking -
after all poverty is a relative phenomenon. Although
muggings are infrequent it is sensible to avoid wearing
a visible jewellery while walking or driving in the
poorer parts of town:.
Expatriates are strongly advised to use a security company.
The most reputable security company is Group 4 Securicor
Weather
A tropical climate with rain falling in the hottest
season, coinciding with the northern hemisphere winter.
The average amount of rainfall varies greatly by region:
the wettest area in the east averages 355cm annually;
in the dry zone (southwest) the annual average is 30cm
(12 ins). It is hot and humid in low-lying areas. Temperatures
can very low in Antananarivo and close to freezing in
the extreme south during the coldest month of June.
Media and Communication
The 5 main French language daily newspapers are the
Midi, Express , Nouvelles, Quotidien and Tribune.
There are plenty of internet cafes springing up and
competition between the 3 Internet Service Providers,
Blueline , Moov & Simicro is bringing connection
costs down. Blueline offer a microwave broadband service
whilst Moov & Simicro use ADSL land lines. Unlimited
access rates are still very expensive compared to Western
countries - around Euro 90 / month in 2008
The national telecommunications utility, Telma, is now
privatized and has certainly improved it 's service
in recent years.
The 3 mobile operators are Orange, Zain(ex. Celtel)
& Telma and , so costs are coming down but are still
exorbitant compared to Europe and the US. If you bring
your GSM phone from abroad you can find specialists
who will unblock it at very competitive rates to work
on the local networks. Telma even offer Blackberry connectivity
for 2008 !
The FM radio airwaves are clogged with stations. The
good news is that the BBC , VOA and RFI are also on
FM.
Quality of local TV is average to poor and most expatriates
tend to subscribe to a satellite service. French speakers
are very well catered for with 3 operators present:
Canal Satellite, TVF and Parabole Madagascar. English
speakers must rely on the only English language service
provider which is DSTV (BBC, CNN, Discovery, National
Geographic and around 50 other channels) and sadly more
expensive than the French language services.
Antananarivo
The name means "The Town of a Thousand" in
Malagasy. Antananarivo is the seat of government, the
major manufacturing centre and commercial hub. Like
in so many cities in developing countries rapid population
growth and poverty means the infrastructure is creaking
under the pressure of congestion, pollution and petty
crime. At the same time "Tana" still retains
an old world feel with traditional Malagasy and French
colonial architecture giving it a unique charm. You
do not find the large skyscrapers and ugly tenement
blocks that blight so many cities in Africa. The municipal
authorities continue to energetically clean up the town
after years of neglect.
Water and Electricity
The national utility, Jirama, provides water and electricity
throughout the country. The voltage is 220v and sockets
/ plugs follow the French model. In Tana the electricity
supply tends to be reliable and black outs only occur
during the cyclone season. Supply tends to be quickly
restored. Outside the capital the picture isn't so impressive.
A voltage regulator / surge protector is recommended
for sensitive appliances i.e. TV's, Computers.
Water supply is not a problem in Tana with only rare
cuts in supply. Outside Tana the situation is mixed.
Although the water is treated it is not recommended
to drink without boiling first. Mineral water is readily
available in most retail outlets.
Recent rate increases (2007/2008) mean electricity
is now very expensive so avoid power hungry appliances
if you can i.e. Electric heaters
A Naturalist's Paradise
Most of the island's plants and animals (think lemurs
!) are unique to Madagascar and new species are still
being found by scientific teams that go there. Of the
native plants 80% are endemic. All the mammals are endemic,
excluding those introduced by man; and half of the birds
and well over 90% of the reptiles are found nowhere
else. The incredible number of unique species is due
to the island's early separation from the African mainland
some 165 million years ago, and to the recent arrival
of man (around 2,000 years ago).
Housing
Adequate expatriate housing in 2008 has become a problem
and supply of quality housing has not kept up with demand.
It is not easy to find exactly what you want in Tana.
Although several Real Estate Agencies can now be found
in Tana, much of the housing is available through referrals
and word of mouth.
The main Agencies:
Guy Hoquet 22 345 89
Immobilier Conseil 22 320 75
As a rule of thumb, suitable apartments range from
US$800 - 2,000 per month with houses ranging from $1,000
to $3,000 and upwards in the "diplomatic"
suburb of Ivandry. Remember that these prices do not
include appliances, electricity costs and most-times,
security guards. It is essential to have security guards
as pilferage and theft is a major concern.
It is important to try to pay as little in advance
as possible which might encourage the tenant to undertake
repairs should anything go wrong during the term of
the lease.
Furniture and Appliances
Simple locally manufactured and imported furniture is
available in Tana. Neither design nor quality is remarkable
and you may find that doors and drawers warp because
of the high humidity, but they serve their purpose.
220V appliances are available, quite expensive, mostly,
of lower quality and of questionable origin although
the recent arrival of foreign retailers has certainly
brought quality levels up. Remember that in many cases,
large refrigerators and stoves do not fit into the niches
provided in some kitchens and washer/dryers are a mixed
blessing. If you elect to bring sensitive appliances
i.e. TV's, make sure you purchase stabilizer and surge
protectors before you leave. Plugs follow the French
continental type
Domestic Staff
It is common to employ house staff, cooks, gardeners
and security guards. Salaries are extremely reasonable
and they add greatly to the quality of life overseas.
Those expatriates who are leaving Madagascar always
try to find good employment for their reliable staff
after their departure and you should have no problem
finding recommended help with good references. Nannies
are wonderful with children.
Schools
There are several foreign schools in Madagascar, principally
in Tana. They are namely the American School of Antananarivo,
the French Lycee, the Primary Schools and the Alliance
Française. It is important to apply as early
as possible for admission to these schools to get the
best streaming for your child. In addition, don't forget
to submit copies of your child's school reports. Your
embassy or High Commission may be able to assist you
with introductions.
American School of Antananarivo (ASA) - Tel : + 261
20 22 420 39
Email : asa.madagascar@gmail.com
French Lycee - Tel : + 261 20 22 415 14 or 22 415 19
Email :
secrétariat-proviseur@lst.mg
French Primary School - Tel : + 261 20 22 538 51
Alliance Française - Tel : + 261 20 22 689 49
Email : dgaf@alliancefr.mg
Clubs
Clubs and Sporting Clubs are quite popular in Madagascar
and form the principal avenues of the social life for
many expatriate. The year-long sunshine encourages participatory
sports such as Tennis, Golf, Laser Yachting and horse
riding. There is only one Golf club and it will pay
to know an existing member to gain membership.
ACSA (Amicale Culturelle et Sportive) - Tel : + 261
20 22 205 47 Email: acsa@freenet.mg
COT - Tel : + 261 20 22 423 78 Email clubcot@yahoo.fr
MALAZA GOLF CLUB - Tel : + 261 32 02 542 16
Embassy Registration
It's always a good idea to register with your Embassy
or High Commission as soon as you arrive in Madagascar.
Not only is it appreciated by the mission, but also
a good way to meet other nationals at the drink parties
that are held from time to time. Most of the diplomatic
missions are fairly laid-back in Tana and are much more
helpful than in other larger countries.
Shopping
With the advent of French and South African retailers
Madagascar is not the "bare cupboard" it once
was. It still pays to bring luxury and sports goods
within your removal. Local fruit and vegetables are
available everywhere in abundance. Where else in Africa
outside South Africa can you find locally produced pate
de foie gras and wine?
Restaurants
You are in luck here as the local restaurants have certainly
been influenced by French cuisine. Along with numerous
French restaurants you will find Italian, Chinese and
even Malagasy cuisine. Lively bistros and nightclubs
are also mushrooming in the capital. Beers, local and
a variety of imported wines are freely available as
is most liquor in restaurants and grocery stores.
La Boussole - Tel : + 261 20 22 358 10 Email : labossole@moov.mg
Kudeta - Tel : + 261 20 22 281 54 Email : kudeta@blueline.mg
Le Sud - Tel : + 261 20 22 310 22 Email : lesudmada@yahoo.com
Le Rossini - Tel : + 261 20 22 342 44 Email : legrand@moov.mg
Karibotel - Tel : + 261 20 22 665 54 Email : karibotel@moov.mg
Nerone - Tel : + 261 20 22 231 18
Hotels
The three main quality hotels in Tana are the Carlton
(ex Hilton) , Hotel Colbert and Hotel du Louvre (ex.
Hotel Ibis). The former is self contained with more
of a western modern feel to it with a swimming pool
, sports club and tennis courts. Those looking for a
little more old style ambience will prefer the Hotel
Colbert which is in the old colonial upper town. It
has recently been extended and modernized and has a
business centre and sports club. Remember that international
telephone calls are very expensive from hotels here
so it will pay to sign up to a local mobile phone provider
on your arrival. There is a huge drop in quality if
you wish to find a cheaper alternative to the above
hotels. Wirless internet connection is now available
at the larger hotels.
The tops hotels have become very expensive in recent
years and it is increasingly difficult to make reservations
so remember to book well in advance.
Carlton (ex Hilton) - Tel : + 261 20 22 260 60 Email
: niryrandrianoely@carlton.mg
Hotel Colbert - Tel : + 261 20 22 202 02 Email : colbert@moov.mg
Hotel du Louvre (ex Hotel Ibis) - Tel : + 261 20 22
390 00 Email : hoteldulouvre@simicro.mg
Le Cactus Vert - Tel : + 261 20 22 624 41 Email : lecactusvert@moov.mg
Marina - Tel : + 261 20 22 437 11 Email : marina.tana@mel.moov.mg
La Residence de l' Emyrne - this is new boutique hotel
Vehicles
Do keep in mind that in Madagascar we drive on the right
side of the road so make sure you bring a LHD vehicle.
4WD Japanese vehicles are advised as they will more
likely find buyers on your departure and many service
parts can be sourced locally Try to avoid gasoline/petrol
engine 4WD models as Diesel fuel is cheaper here. Non
diplomat and non NGO shippers must have owned their
vehicle for at least 12 months overseas for import duty
exemption.
Driving Licenses
You will be allowed to drive with an International driving
license (available from your local Automobile Club)
for the period of time that it will take you to become
an "official" resident of Madagascar . Once
you are a resident, you will have to go through the
tedious process of obtaining a Madagascar driving license
although in practice many expatriates continue to use
their own national licence for the duration of their
stay.
Religion
Christianity is the main organized religion, with the
Protestant and Catholic churches predominating. Islam
and Hinduism are also practiced, mainly the by Comorian
and Asian communities, but for many Malagasy in the
rural areas their own from of ancestor worship is a
very important influence in their lives.
Currency Exchange
The Malagasy Ariary is now a floating currency but exchange
must be made through banks or an approved Bureau de
Change. Try to avoid bringing large denomination notes
and travelers cheques.. Credit cards are accepted at
several hotels and better restaurants and large supermarkets
but beware of large transaction commissions. Automatic
tellers / cashpoint machines have become widespread
at banks, hotels and the large supermarkets
The main banks are:
BFV Societe Generale
BMOI (Part of BNP Paribas)
Madagascar Commercial Bank
BNI Credit Agricole
State Bank of Mauritius
And Finally....
With a little good humour you will find Madagascar
an enchanting place. Don't expect Western style levels
of customer service but do expect plenty of smiles if
you master a few words of Malagasy. Here are a few to
get you started:
Welcome - Tonga Soa
Good morning - Salama Tompoko
Pardon me - Azafady Tompoko
How much is it ? - Ohatrinona ?
It's too expensive ! - Lafo be !
Yes - No - Eny - Tsia
What is your name ? - Iza ianao ?
My name is - Izaho dia
I don't understand - Tsy mazava
I understand - Azoko tsara
Always Wwm - Wwm foana
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